Pre-trip: Final Travel Plan

The departure date was approaching and we were still waiting for the Tibet permit so we could book our return flight. We were getting really anxious.

Meanwhile, I was researching for the trip and finally planned our route. Jeff left the mission to me as I told him that I liked planning the trip beforehand. He, on the contrary, usually traveled without planning and just went with his feelings instead. I tried that once and failed horribly, so here what our trip was supposed to look like...

6 Sep: Hangzhou - Xining (plane) >> booked
7 Sep: Xining - Chaka Salt Lake - Heimahe (bus/minivan)
8 Sep: Qinghai Lake - Xining - Kanbula Park (bus)
9 Sep: Kanbula Park - Xining (bus)
10 Sep: Xining - Lhasa (train) >> booked
11 - 23 Sep: Tibet Tour [Lhasa - Mount Kailash - Everest Base Camp - Namtso Lake] (4WD) >> booked
24 Sep: Lhasa - Xining (train/plane)
25 Sep: Xining - Huashixia (bus)
26 Sep: Huashixia - Xia Dawu (minivan)
27 Sep - 1 Oct: Amnye Machen Kora (trekking)
2 Oct: Huashixia - Yushu (sleeper bus)
3 Oct: Yushu - Manigango (bus)
4 Oct: Manigango - Yihun Lhatso - Ganzi (minivan)
5 Oct: Ganzi - Kangding (bus)
6 Oct: Kangding - Chengdu (bus)
           Chengdu - Hangzhou (plane)

Many people suggested to have a rest day after 10 days of traveling or so, but that would never gonna happen to me, not before, and not in a million years. I thought I was tough enough for this 31-day trip. Mostly we would be in the bus anyway. And normally on the bus, I would be sleeping. I had been running (30 mins) and cycling (10-30 km) almost every day. I should be fine, I hoped.

Pre-trip: Hotel Reservation

Our Tibet tour didn't include accommodation, so we had to find the hotel/hostel/guesthouse on our own. Jeff and I didn't have any problem with whatever kind of places we might end up sleeping in. For me, the cheaper, the better (as long as the place is not full of rats and cockroaches.. I could tolerate some spiders though). The Latvia couple was asking a few times about the hotel in Lhasa for our first three nights during 10-13 Sep. They said it would be better if we booked in advance so we didn't have to find one on the first day that we arrive as we might be tired from the train ride already. On that point, I agreed with them.

I managed to compile the information about the hotels in Lhasa that I found in Qunar website. I sent the pdf file to the couple to choose the hotel.

[1]

[2]

[3]

[4]

We agreed to choose Hotel #1. I told them that I was going to book it for all of us.

Unfortunately, I just realized that my credit card was already expired (bah!). I was still using my Thai credit card. In China, I normally used my UnionPay debit card. I only used the credit card when I went back to Thailand anyway (except when I had to book flight/hotel). I thought I'd better get a new credit card right away in case I was short of cash or for emergency situation, so I asked my brother to send a new card to me from Thailand (together with Diamox - AMS pill. Luckily, the card arrived a few days before I left ^___^

I asked Jeff to help book the hotel for us, but it turned out that this hotel didn't accept foreigners. Make sure that the hotel you want to stay in accept foreigners. Some small local guesthouses might not have the license to accept foreigner guests. If you book the hotel in a famous website like hostelworld, booking.com, yha, and etc, then it should be okay. 

Jeff managed to find a new hostel Dalan Youth Hostel on Beijing West Road which I thought it was near the center of Lhasa. We booked a 4-bed room (60 RMB per person). For the accommodation outside Lhasa, we didn't book in advance. The travel agency said that the guide would help us find the hotel. 

I checked the hostel in Xining for our first night on 6 Sep and was planning to stay at Heng Yu International Youth Hostel which is near the train station and bus station. I thought that we could just walk in there and there should be plenty of rooms left as it wasn't the holiday period, so I didn't book the room in advance. For the rest of our trip in Qinghai before and after going to Tibet, we also didn't book any room coz we still didn't make up our mind about the exact places to go yet.

Always print out the photo of the hotel and the direction from Google Map. It helps to find the hotel easier. Also, always print out the hotel information in both Chinese and English in case you cannot find the hotel and need to ask people for the direction. The hotel number is also important in case the taxi driver does not know the way to the hotel.

Qinghai Heng Yu International Youth Hostel

No. 13 Weimin Lane, Chengdong District, Xining, China 

青海省西宁市城东区为民巷13号（马步芳公馆1号院）

Tel: 086-0971-5223399

Dalan Youth Hostel

172 Beijing Middle Road, Lhasa

名称：达兰客栈

地址：西藏拉萨市城关区北京中路172号

电话：0891-6725172

Pre-trip: Acclimatization

At first, I was planning to fly from Hangzhou to Lhasa directly to save time as I didn't want to waste my precious (and limited) vacation leave. Jeff suggested that for better acclimatization, we'd better take train to Lhasa. Actually, I didn't think about acclimatization before. I was able to adapt to the high altitude quite well in my previous trip to Yading in 2011. The highest point we went were at 4800 m. I didn't have any trouble there except from short of breath due to the low density of oxygen which was quite common in high altitude. After Jeff mentioned about acclimatization, I began to get real worried.

I asked my friend who went to Annapurna Base Camp in Nepal last year whether she was having any trouble with the high altitude. She said everyone in the trip was okay except her. She vomited once or twice. This same friend went to Yading with me and she also vomited badly last time. Later, I looked up the elevation of Kathmandu and all the places we had to go through in this trip in Wikipedia. And I was shocked...

Elevation
Kathmandu = 1400 m
Lhasa = 3490 m 
Everest Base Camp = 5200 m
Namtso Lake = 4718 m
Dolma La Pass (during Kailash Kora) = 5636 m

I also asked another friend who just came back from Lhasa a week ago. She went there doing news reporting (and didn't have to pay anything.. lucky her!!). She flew from Beijing to Lhasa. She said she got serious problems with the high altitude. She almost fainted on the first day that she arrived at the airport. She also had a headache every day and couldn't sleep well at night. It was very cold. Her lips were shaking constantly. The air was thin. Also, the sunlight was strong up there. She told me to bring lots of sunscreen. She said that her colleague who went with her was even worse. He had to use oxygen bottle. In the end, he didn't get enough oxygen and developed lung infection. After chatting with her, I also officially developed a panic attack.

I read a post in Yowangdu website about flying to Xining, spending a couple of days there to acclimatize and then taking a train from Xining to Lhasa. Though, it would take me additional 3-4 days in Xining and around, it would better guarantee that I would arrive in Lhasa in a well-acclimatized condition and decrease the chance of getting high altitude sickness. I wanted to fully enjoy this trip in the healthiest condition of mine. Taking the train to Lhasa seemed to be the smartest option in this case.